Puerto Viejo Costa Rica
The town of Puerto Viejo is located 124 miles east of San Jose and 34 miles south of Limon. Puerto Viejo has become more popular than the nearby Cahuita because of its lively atmosphere and because of the large amount of surfers that come to the area from around the country and the world to ride the famous Salsa Brava wave.
If you don't prefer surfing then there are several good swimming beaches and plenty of activity options including nearby rainforest trails. There are also a lot of great local and international restaurants that you can choose from.
The town gets a lot of rain so if you are looking for sun your best times to come are between September and October. Although even in these months suns not guaranteed. As you head further south there are even more beautiful beaches along the coast that have white sand and turquoise seas.
During the calm sea periods around August to October the waters are some of the clearest in the country. The coral reefs nearby offer excellent opportunities for snorkeling. Recently a paved road has connected Puerto Viejo with Manzanillo which has helped to make the beaches more accessible. There is a small selection of moderately priced and budget hotels along the coast line.
Puerto Viejo is located near the end of Costa Rica's Caribbean coast. About nine miles south of Puerto Viejo is the town of Manzanillo and after that there is a national wildlife reserve that stretches all the way to the Panamanian border.
HOW TO GET THERE
Multiple airlines fly from New York to Juan Santamaria International Airport in San Jose, Costa Rica. While there are jumper flights to Puerto Limon, it's easier to rent a car (four-wheel drive recommended) and take the four-hour trip by road. Daily shuttle buses run by companies like Interbus or Gray Line also make the trip. Expect to pay about $35 per person each way; there is sometimes an additional $10 charge for luggage.
WHERE TO STAY
The 23 rooms at Le Cameleon (between Puerto Viejo and Cocles Beach; 506-2750-0501) are spread among three glass and wood buildings that embrace a foliage-lined pool.
When it opened about a decade ago Shawandha Lodge (Playa Chiquita; 506-2750-0018) was the first upscale hotel to open near Puerto Viejo. The Mayan-inspired design is still appealing; the larger bungalows are a good deal at $110 a night, including breakfast.
Casa Viva Beach Houses (Punta Uva; 506-2750-0089; puntauva.net) is the best of both worlds. You can have the privacy of your own one- or two-bedroom bungalow on the beach as well as the guidance of the knowledgeable hostess, Jeanie Waller. A one-bedroom house starts at $100 a day.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Jungle Love (Playa Chiquita; 506-2750-0162; junglelovecafe.com) serves Caribbean and California-style comfort food and tropical drinks. Dinner only.
For good, well-priced local fare, head to Restaurante Elena Brown (Puerto Viejo; 506-2750-0165) and order the pollo a la Elena: chicken fajitas with a spicy coconut milk sauce.
The lively but rustic Caribeans Cafe (Puerto Viejo; 506-8836-8930; caribeanscoffee.com) is a great place for breakfast or an afternoon milkshake.
The ceviche may be a little rubbery but the vibe at Maxi's Bar and Restaurant (Manzanillo, 506-2759-9073) is always authentic and sea-breeze fresh. On Saturday night the place is hopping.
If you tire of casual beach fare, make a reservation at the elegant Italian restaurant La Pecora Nera (near Cocles Beach; 506-2750-0490).
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